1. Tie a length of thread to the outside warp on the side you have your bead mat and beads, leaving a 20cm (8in) tail. Use a simple overhand knot (see page 17) and as long a thread as you are comfortable with as it means fewer joins. Then thread the end into a long beading needle.

Tip: Weaving a few rows with the weft thread before you begin will stabilise the warp threads, by helping to space the threads and making it easier to position and slot the first row of beads into the threads.

2. Pick up the beads for the first row on the needle and position under the warp threads so that there is one bead between each pair of threads. Hold the beads in place with your finger and pull the needle with the weft thread through the beads with your other hand.

3. Keeping the beads in position with your finger, feed the needle back through the beads, making sure that it goes above the warp threads this time. For the continuous warp method, in particular, it is essential not to split the warp threads with the needle (see page 24).

4. Pick up the beads for the second row and repeat steps 2 and 3. It becomes easier to weave as more beads are added. If you have a chart pick the beads up in the order required and push the beads rows together snugly.

5. When you get near the end of the working thread join on a new thread. Feed the needle between two beads near the opposite edge and pass through several beads. Work a half hitch (see page 17) and then pass the needle through the remaining beads out to the edge where the other tail has been left. Sew the tail in later.

Tip: Beginning or finishing a thread between two beads in the body of the work is neater as the tail end is invisible when trimmed.

6. If you are working on a loom with rollers, loosen the rollers and wind the work further along until there is enough length of warp thread to complete the beading. On long pieces tuck a piece of card in between the peg and beadwork to prevent it getting damaged.